'Nista

Adventures in Retouching

Source: Andreea Angelescu for Launchpad

Source: Andreea Angelescu for Launchpad

Source: Andreea Angelescu for Launchpad

First and foremost, I'm a magazine editor/writer, but, lately I've been dabbling in Photoshop, retouching images on my own time for my own enjoyment (yes, I've retouched myself in several photos, making myself 10 lbs skinnier and absolutely zit-free). I'm completely self-taught, learning as I go along. Because of a lack of resources at the magazine I work at currently, I went ahead and retouched images for a story I wrote—which I have never done before, but the art department felt I was good enough to do it. The images I posted above are just three of the 10 images I retouched. I need to learn how to do a "roll over" so you can really see the differences; side-by-side comparisons don't really do them justice. But, the idea when retouching images for backstage beauty is to keep the retouching as natural-looking as possible. You want to smooth the skin, remove all blemishes, and keep shine to a minimum when possible or called for.

You also want to enhance shine on the hair; smooth any serious wrinkles/creases; and clean up mustaches. Yes, mustaches. These models have crazy mustaches and tons of baby hairs around their hairlines—I assume from lack of nutrition, but you never know. Maybe I'm too cynical (not). You also zap under-eye bags and red eyes, and you enhance eye color without drastically changing it. Punching up makeup is necessary, but changing makeup colors is downright wrong (after all, the images are of actual beauty looks backstage; you want to show exactly what was coming down the runways). Occasionally you have to clean up makeup; but if the makeup artist is actually really good, you don't have to do that too much.

The end result should be so subtle, you would think these girls were born with PERFECT genes.

The above images are from Roberto Cavalli, Gucci and Oscar de la Renta.

Vogue + IMG = New Modeling Non-Reality Show

I am extremely excited for this new "non-reality show" look at the modeling industry. Truthfully, the life of a model is probably way more interesting than throwing a bunch of strangers in a house and watching them be "real." The word is that there will be no slight-of-hand editing; meaning, if the girls endure depression, eating disorders or rejection, it won't be omitted from the show. Tres cool.

Eva Mendes + Jessica Biel = Curvy?

Source: Calvin Klein

Eva Mendes is the new face for Calvin Klein’s Seductive Comfort underwear, a move CK president and CEO Tom Murry says is “a departure from more slender body types that have typically been used in Calvin Klein Underwear ads...This product is made for a curvaceous woman.”

OK. Yes, Eva is curvier than the average Hollywood A-lister, who usually is a willowy size 0, but...yikes! She's still slender! She's probably a 4 on a supposed "fat" day.

Source: Harper's Bazaar

Cut to the latest issue of Harper's Bazaar, which features "curvy" Jessica Biel on its cover. For whatever reason, in the accompanying piece, the following size-divulging sentence infiltrates the story:

"Though the 26-year-old star is still happiest in her size-26 7 for All Mankind jeans, Jessica is dipping her toes into designer territory, surrounding herself with the most extravagant gowns from the American fall runways."

Do we need to know her size? And, as she is usually referred to has "curvy" or "heavier" by Hollywood standards, it's pretty damn sad that's she's a size 26, which is a 2/4.

How do I begin? In three weeks, I will be turning the dreaded 3-0, and my body has changed itself within the past few months in such a way that I look as though I'm hitting that milestone having had three kids and no tummy tuck. I've always been a voluptuous girl, yet still quite slender, meaning I've got the tits, ass and thighs, with a slender waist and slender arms. This has changed quite a bit this past year. My body's set point seems to be around a size 8 (or size 29 to 30 jeans), though I certainly have fluctuated, getting to as low as a 2 (or size 26). I was chastised by family and friends when I was a 2; even when I was a 4 I was told I was too skinny. So, what gives? These two women are supposedly curvy—and they're only size 2s? I guess that puts me in fat land, which I had already relegated myself to. Damn those Hollywood women and their impossible to attain standards! It would be nice if we could all just stop with the body image crap...but it's hard to when it's tossed in our face constantly. Should there be a new standard? How do we dig ourselves out of this thin obsession? When will the pendulum swing?

Naomi Knows Best: Supermodel Supreme

Source: Fashion-ation.net

Temperamental supermodel Naomi Campbell aired her views in The Daily Mail on the super-svelte girls who walk the catwalks these days. “I think the term ‘supermodel’ gets thrown around too much nowadays,” she mused. “Kate Moss is obviously a supermodel, but after Gisele, don’t think there’s been one.”

True, true, but there are models that are currently around that have that supermodel potential, have locked in oodles of advertising gigs and editorial placements, but just haven't garnered enough PUBLIC recognition. See, that's the problem: The supermodels of yesterday used to grace the covers of magazines, so they were quite recognizable. But, these days only actresses clench the coveted covers of magazines, as well as ton of token advertising contracts—so why would we, the general public, care about a model if we weren't subjected to her face at the grocery stands?

Here are the girls who stand out to me...and I have seen 'em all.

Bianca Balti: She is absolutely stunning in real life. Some models aren't; she is. For some reason, she burst on the scene and then fizzled out for a bit. She's not a big runway fixture, nor does she rack up a ton of advertising contracts, though she is with Maybelline and Victoria's Secret. Who can deny those lips?

Magdalena Frackowiak: I have never seen this girl smile. She has always got a puss on her face backstage. But there is something about her that draws you in. Maybe it's her babyish features that set her apart from the pack.

Siri Tollerod: Yes, she's got the alien look that is so popular currently, but she can be vampy, too, which is a "calling card" of any true supermodel. She's very new to the scene, so I'm sure we'll continue to see plenty of her.

Natasha Poly: Extremely gorgeous with cheekbones that could cut glass. She tends to be a bit angular (i.e. skinny), but has the glam quotient of a supermodel, if not the curves.

Lily Donaldson: She looks like an angel, and also has that alien-esque feel, but can also skew All-American if that's what is asked for. She is a mighty presence on the runways...would be awesome to see her on a cover.

Hilary Rhoda: She is the stuff that supermodels are made of: Strong, healthy looks that are at once approachable, yet still otherworldly. She's not my exact cup of tea (I'm more of a Natasha Poly, Magdalena type), but I know a supermodel when I see one.

Chanel Iman: Like Hilary Rhoda, she's got that approachability that makes her instantly relatable, and yet she is so beyond perfect, it's almost distracting. She's only 17...she's going to go far.

Of course, I have my two favorite models who I would never deem supermodels because their beauty is far from approachable. They are awkward, yet gorgeous, and quite in-demand. They are:

Lara Stone

Tania D.

Clean Up Your Image?

When I started working in beauty publishing, there was definitely concern that polishes contained formaldehyde, but beyond that, the other ingredients seemed fine. Well, not so, and now more and more polish companies (as well as haircare and skincare) have had to reformulate their products to become what has become known as "three-free"—free of Formaldehyde, Toluene, and DBP (phthalate) (this is specific to nail polishes).

Well, butter LONDON, a self-proclaimed leader in non-toxic and high fashion nail care products, recently partnered with BrandHabit, a website that helps consumers track down boutiques carrying their favourite designers and must-have-items, to launch the Turn in Your Toxins campaign. This initiative was introduced at butter LONDON stores, high-end fashion boutiques and established wholesale spa and boutique accounts across North America.

During the campaign period, butter LONDON invited customers to “turn in their toxins” at participating butter LONDON stores and fashion boutiques across the United States and Canada. Each customer who brought three of their nail polishes containing the toxic chemicals Formaldehyde, Toluene, and DBP (phthalate) received one bottle of any “3 Free” nail lacquer by butter LONDON – for FREE!.

This is a fabulous initiative, but what really got me to gasp was the image that accompanied the press release. Tons of polishes in company-specific bottles—that could really piss off a bunch of polish manufacturers that may not want their dirty laundry aired.

Alleged Sweat Shop in My Town!

Goodness...amazing that this continues to go on...

Via WWD:

NEW YORK — An investigation conducted by the New York State Department of Labor has uncovered significant labor violations at a factory manufacturing garments for Macy’s, Gap, Banana Republic, Express, Victoria's Secret, Limited and Coldwater Creek.

Jin Shun Inc., a garment contractor operating out of Long Island City, in the borough of Queens, is alleged to have underpaid more than 100 mostly immigrant workers by nearly $3 million in minimum and overtime wages since 2005.

The investigation found that prior to 2005, Jin Shun Inc. operated under the name Venture 47 and allegedly withheld nearly $2.5 million in minimum and overtime wages.

Officials raided two factories this morning and tagged more than 10,000 garments with a label stating the garments were unlawfully manufactured.

Jin Shun contracted with a Manhattan-based manufacturer called Urban Apparel that has already paid $60,000 in underpayments to have the tags removed on the items tagged this morning.

The DOL’s Apparel Industry & Fair Wages Task Force found factory workers worked 12-hour days, often six or seven days a week. Employees were paid on a piece-rate basis and were instructed to fill out two time cards — one for Monday through Wednesday and a second card for theremainder of the week — ensuring that no more than 40 hours of work would show on any card. According to the timecards and the factory's production, workers were completing an entire item of clothing in less than a minute. Investigators even found a question-and-answer sheet meant to coach workers on how to respond to labor investigators without raising suspicions.

Giselle Bundchen in W

Giselle has definitely still got it. I always said if I was going to swing to the ladies' side, Giselle would be my type.

R.I.P. Sophia Petrillo (Estelle Getty)

Source: Estellegetty.com

This saddens me. I absolutely adore "The Golden Girls." Crazy how a group of seniors could entertain me from age 10 to now...Estelle Getty will be missed.

Beauty on a Dime: Budget Fashionista

My hair in it's healthier days...

I started blogging for The Budget Fashionista around two months ago and it's quite interesting trying to find the cheapest beauty scoops. Normally, I'm the sort of beautynista that doesn't really fret too much about dollar values; meaning, I definitely don't buy cheap makeup, hair care or skin care, but I also don't seek the highest-priced product thinking it's dollar value means it works. I guess I don't really have to; I get most everything I use for free because I'm a beauty editor.

Go figure, you think, but seriously, just because I get free product doesn't mean I love them all. Once I discover something that turns my world upside down, I get hooked, and I go out and actually BUY it. For instance, I discovered the BEST hair product of all time (in my eyes), and I won't name it here because I want to devote an entire blog post to it, but I just went out and bought three more tubs of it, I love it so very much.

Anyway, trying to find beauty on a dime is becoming increasingly easier because luxury items are becoming more popular. You may be thinking, "Huh? That doesn't make much sense." Let me explain the link: Not too terribly long ago, rappers—yes, rappers—like Jay-Z started singing about Gucci, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana. Prior to this, your average Joe had no clue what those three names meant, but with the widespread popularity of rap, he became aware of luxury items. Suddenly, the regular consumer is wanting these luxe products in hopes it will lead him to that luxe lifestyle—gold chains, fast cars, mansions...just kidding, but you get the picture. The internet made luxury items more accessible, or at least more known. Since then, luxury items have been focused on more and more in the media; celebrities use them, people want them. Then, some high-end designers started doing the whole "mass market appeal," crossing over by churning out luxe-for-less lines (H&M, Target, etc). This whole phenomenon has plenty of steam, and has continued even into the beauty market. CVS and Walgreens have begun introducing higher-end products onto their shelves; have started implementing beauty salespeople who will help you tailor your beauty needs; and have lines manufactured by high-end salons at inexpensive prices. Therein lies the link. They know you, the end consumer, wants these luxe beauty products, but you may not go to Barney's or Bergdorf, so they'll deliver it to you at your local one-stop shop. And not only that, but mass-market lines, such as Olay, step up their formulations to deliver results that were often thought to only be accessible if you plunked down a slew of Jacksons (yes, that's $20). So what was once reserved for prestige lines is now available in mass lines. Mass-market lines need to keep up, and they are doing so.

But, back to high-end salons creating affordable products for us chicks with only a few pennies to scrape together...One of my most recent Budget Fashionista posts, here, delves into one such haircare line. Check it out and let me know what you think. Check out the rest of the website, too. It features tons of practical advice for women who want to keep their finances in check, yet remain fashionable and beautiful while doing so.

My First Brazilian…

…and I don’t mean down below. Please—I’m modest!

Anyway, I have friends who can’t go without a weekly manicure and pedicure. Perfectly polished nails remain one of their No. 1 indulgences, even in times of economic distress. I, sadly, am not like them. Even though I have worked in the professional beauty industry for close to eight years, I rarely make it into a salon to have my hands and feet tended to. Why? Well, I’m a bit squeamish when it comes to having my feet touched, and I do a fairly good job of lacquering up my digits myself. Don’t get me wrong—I don’t go a day without polished fingernails and toenails. But I just haven’t gotten into the groove of sussing out a salon’s help.

So when I was invited to indulge in a mani and pedi at Soho’s curly-girl haven, Devachan Salon (560 W. Broadway and 425 Broome St.), I jumped on it. My nails were crying for a pro’s touch, and my feet—forget about it! Walking in Manhattan has killed my soles; calluses and ugly blisters are my new best friends. I settled into the soothing massage pedicure throne at Devachan, and the lovely Valeria Esa set to righting my bruised and battered feet while Lidi Santos worked on my hands.

And then…it happened.

As Lidi polished my fingernails, I felt something. It was as though she was polishing my whole finger. I didn’t say anything; after all, she’s the nail pro, not me. Indeed, when I snuck a sideways peek, I found she had polished over my cuticles and the skin surrounding the sides of my nails. After she finished one hand, she went back over each nail with the spoon edge of a metal cuticle pusher, scooping the excess polish away from the nail—but it wasn’t gone. Now, imagine if you will: Each nail was polished, but with an additional U-shape of excess polish on my skin surrounding the nail. I still didn’t say anything.

My other hand received the same polish and scoop treatment, and by this point, I was getting used to the feeling. A bit cold and wet, but bearable. Then, suddenly, she whipped out an orange stick with cotton, doused the cotton in acetone, and ever-so-carefully cleaned up each “U” that surrounded each nail.

When she finished, I thanked her. The polish job was superb. But I was still feeling a bit confused. Luckily, when Valeria started to lacquer my toenails, she explained the technique. (I’m assuming the puzzled look on my face prompted this.) In Brazil, this is how it’s done: You polish past the sidewalls, onto the skin, and over the cuticles. Then, you go back and clean up. Valeria told me that, this way, the polish gets all the way to edges of the nail, getting into those nooks and crannies on the sides (especially if you have major C-curves, like I do); and it does—it butts up perfectly to my skin and cuticles. And, even better: She insists that this Brazilian technique ensures that the polish job lasts longer than normal manis and pedis received Stateside. I’m intrigued.

Twelve days later, and my manicure looked as fresh as it did the day of polishing. And my pedicure—well, it’s been more than a month, and I haven’t needed to a touch up. Sure, there’s a bit of growth at the cuticle, but it’s not nearly as noticeable as usual.

Naturally, different cultures embrace different techniques—but we can’t all globetrot to experience them. Do you have a technique you discovered during your travels or that you learned in your culture? I’d love to hear! Share them in the comments section!

Until next time!

Devachan Salons and Departure Lounges are located in SoHo.